![]() ![]() Then I used an offcut of the drawer parts to space the rest of the slides as I attached them up both sides. Add Drawer SlidesĪfter the paint was dry I installed the full extension slides using a small spacer for the bottom slide. I put a couple coats of white paint on the first several inches of the inside of the cabinet, which is all you’ll ever see in use. This hides the plywood bottom when viewed from the side and gives it a floating panel look.īefore installing the drawers I needed to do one more thing. I finished out each drawer by routing a 45 degree chamfer on the edges. I glued and nailed the bottoms in place and this makes the drawer even stronger as it locks everything together. After the boxes were together I cut four drawer bottoms from 1⁄4” plywood. The drawers go together with pocket screws which hold well in the 3⁄4” plywood. For more information on how I build my drawers check out How To Make Drawers in 6 Easy Steps. I cut the parts to size to account for the full extension drawer slides I’ll be using. ![]() We decided to go with four medium sized drawers. This prevents bowing and separation when they are secured to the wall.ģ. The back supports got attached to the sides and I also put two screws through the top and bottom to hold them in place as well. Then I flipped the cabinet over and secured the top supports as well using large clamps to hold everything tight. ![]() Next I secured the bottom with pocket screws. I cut the parts to size then used my new Kreg K5 for joinery. The sides are joined by the bottom and four supports. This allows me to be able to leave the baseboards in place. I also decided to cut a notch on the back of the board to go around the baseboards. I made layout lines for a toe kick on the front of the dresser, and used my jigsaw to cut them out. I cut the parts for the carcass then took the sides to my bench for some notches. The base of the center unit will have four drawers and will function like a small dresser. You could make the rest of the cuts with a circular saw, but if you have a table saw it would be much easier to use. I used my track saw and some rigid foam insulation on top of my table saw and new outfeed table. I started by breaking down my large sheets of plywood to make them more manageable. Build Cabinet Base of DIY Closet Shelves Break Down Plywood and Cut Parts Then you can grab the nail and remove the wall anchors.Īfter you’re done you should just need to do a little patching and sanding to get the wall prepped afterwards. So use a putty knife or screwdriver to pry the nail out of the recess first. The j-clips are a little trickier since you can’t just grab the nail head. You can pop the wire shelving out of these clips with a few quick pulls or a m allet. Remove any clips that are screwed into studs then you should just be left with the open J-style clips along the back. Then you can do the same thing to the wall anchor and since the nail isn’t there expanding it anymore it will come out cleanly. Use a pair of pliers to grip the nail head and pull it out. The shelves are attached to the wall by a series of clips and brackets, start by removing the angled supports.Īnd here’s a trick for easy removal. If your closet has a vertical support you’ll need to remove them first by unscrewing the clips. And I’ll walk you through the process step-by-step. The good news is removing wire shelving is easy to do. Resist the urge to just rip your wire shelving out of the wall, you’ll wind up with huge holes all over the place that you’ll need to patch and fill. After that was done we were ready for the first real job, taking out all of the wire shelving. To get started we removed the clothes, hangers and everything else from the closet. Remove Old Wire Shelving Empty Out Closet Add drawer fronts and prep long shelvesġ. ![]()
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